The name "diamond" comes from the Greek word "adamas" which means unconquerable-suggesting the eternity of love. Diamond was discovered in 500 B.C. in India.Since ancient Greece diamonds have been the traditional symbol of love.A diamond – the hardestsubstance known to man is a crystallized unique powers of light reflection. Diamond is a colorless stone. The History of Diamonds are from millions ofyear. In fact it takes many years to create a diamond. This crystallization takes place due to tremendous heat and pressure surface of the earth. That is we find more diamonds in the volcanic eruption. Africa has a lot such diamond mines. Even coloured stones are formed in this manner. Diamonds were first mined in Karnataka, India. Ever since that lots of diamonds has been found especially in Africa and Australia. The most precious diamond is the one which is colourless. Similarly, the diamond the more costly it would be. A very fine cut is also important. Diamonds are the most expensive ones as cutting the diamond into delicate and tedious procedure. Of course, the marquise and heart shape are less expensive. Thus, the most expensive diamond would colourless Round.
Facts of diamonds
What is the hardest natural sub Earth?
The Diamond
80% of the world’s diamonds are in jewellery
How old are most diamonds which are found in nature?
1 billion to 3 billion years, by most accounts.
How do diamonds reach us?
They are formed deep within the Earth’s crust, and come to the volcanoes. Most diamonds are found in Kimberlite, which is Volcanoes.
Myths of Diamonds
Diamonds are very rare
Nope! There is more of a man-made shortage than a natural shortage. Distribution of the number of diamonds put on the market each year is regualted. There are really enough diamonds to give each man, woman in the United States a whole cupful.
- Women are more size conscious than quality conscious
This one is almost true, but not quite. Even though most women believe it is better, there still quite a few women out there that will sacrifice better quality diamond.
- Diamond is the most expensive gemstone.
The truth is there are quite a few more expensive gemstones. Example a top quality ruby can be wroth over thirty thousand dollars.
- A large diamond is always worth more a small
Size is only one criterion by which a diamond can be judged. A small high-color diamond can cost more than a large, low-clarify, low-color.
- After a diamond has been cut, little diamonds can be the shavings.
All diamonds, to a certain degree, are difficult to cut, and some take more time and effort to cut than smaller diamonds do. But one diamond harder to cut than another just because of the shape.
- Diamonds are a good investment.
Webster’s dictionary defines investment as "an outlay of money for investment. Since most people purchase diamonds to be worn and not be resold, and not a good investment. Only through proper education and training come to to known that it become a good investment
- A diamond should be bought strictly on its visual "If it looks good, buy it".
A lot of people believe "what I can’t see can’t hurt me". Practically any diamond looks good store. The jeweller spends quite a bit on spotlights to make any quality sparkle. But unless you plan on carryinga spotlight with you everywhere you’d better check the four C’s or you might purchase a diamond that good in jewellery store and is lifeless everywhere else.
- An emerald cut diamons is the most expensive shape
I don’t know why some people believe this. I constantly have clients they like emerald cut diamonds but know that they are the most expensive to afford them. This is crazy! The emerald cut diamond is the least expensive shapes. You see, it is the shape that is most like the natural shape of it and thre is little bit less waste during the cutting process.If you like diamonds, enjoy them, don’t avoid them; they are not any more expensive.
- Diamonds are a bad investment.
Diamonds may not be a good investment for the average person, but too aren’t a bad investment. If a diamons is purchased at the right price, it certainly hold its value.
- No diamond is perfect
The definition of a perfect diamond would be a diamond free from inclusive blemishes when viewed under 10X loupe (flawless), with no trace of colour and perfectly proportioned.
- It is dificult to tell the difference between a diamond cubic zirconia
Any good jewellery can tell the difference immediately. A cubic zirconia plastic look.There seems to be a light-blue cast throughout the entire sure way to determine the difference is by weighing the cubic zirconia. Zirconia will weigh 75 percent more.
- Diamonds are expensive
Some are; some aren’t. It depdnds on their quality. Belive it or not, it get a one-carat diamond for as low as three hundred dollars.
- Diamonds are a girl’s best friend.
This one would have stumped me, too. It wasn’t until recently that I learned there are some women that very much dislike diamonds and think they are a waste of money.
Some Improtant steps to care
Diamonds need appropriate care and handling to remain at their sparkling best. For a lifetime of satisfaction with your diamond purchases followt he tips below for the diamond:
Storage:
Store diamonds in a fabric lined box with dividers. This way they don’t scratch other jewellery or each jellery or each other.Wrap diamond jewellery carefully when travelling and take a commercial clearner with you.
Cleaning:
To clean diamonds, use a mild household detergent in warm water or using half ammonia. Rubbing alcohol remvoes grease.
Handling:
Never do rough work when wearing a diamond. Do not allow diamond come in contact with chlorine bleach; it can discolor the mounting. Customers bring in their diamonds to have the prongs checked and cleaned once a year to make sure that mountign and tore arein good condtiion.
LARGE AND FAMOUS POLISHED DIAMONDS
| CARATS |
COLOUR OF DIAMONDS |
NAME OF DIAMONDS |
ORIGIN COUNTRY |
|
530.02 | WHITE |
CULLINAN I | SOUTH AFRICA |
| 407.48 |
YELLOW | UN-NAMED |
AFRICA |
| 317.40 |
WHITE | CULLINANS-II |
SOUTH AFRICA |
|
280.00 | WHITE |
GREAT MOGUL | INDIA |
| 277.00 |
WHITE | NIZAM |
INDIA |
| 250.00 |
PINK | GREAT TABLE | INDIA |
| 245.35 |
WHITE | JUBLIEE |
SOUTH AFRICA |
|
234.50 | YELLOW |
DEBEERS | SOUTH AFRICA |
| 228.50 |
YELLOW | VICTORIA1880 |
SOUTH AFRICA |
|
205.00 | YELLOW |
RED CROSS | SOUTH AFRICA |
| 202.00 |
BLACK | BLACK STAR OF AFRICA | SOUTH AFRICA |
| 189.60 |
WHITE | ORLOFF |
INDIA |
| 185.00 |
PINK | DARYA-1-NUR (IRAN) | INDIA |
| 184.50 |
WHITE | VICTORIA1884 |
SOUTH AFRICA |
|
150.00 | WHITE |
LIGHT OF PEACE | S.LEONE |
| 150.00 |
WHITE | DARYA-1-NUR(DACCA) |
INDIA |
| 140.50 |
WHITE | REGENT |
INDIA |
| 137.27 |
YELLOW | FLORENTINE |
INDIA |
| 128.51 |
YELLOW | TIFFANY |
SOUTH AFRICA |
|
127.02 | WHITE |
PORTUGESE | BRAZIL |
| 125.65 |
WHITE | JONKER |
SOUTH AFRICA |
|
108.83 | WHITE |
KOH-1-NOOR | INDIA |
| 94.40 |
WHITE | CULLINAN III | SOUTH AFRICA |
| 71.73 |
WHITE | LESOTHO |
LESOTHO |
| 70.20 |
WHITE | IDOL'S EYE | INDIA |
| 69.42 |
WHITE | TAYLOR-BURTON |
SOUTH AFRICA |
|
67.89 | CHAMPAGNE |
TRANSVAAL | SOUTH AFRICA |
| 60.00 |
PINK | NUR-AI-AIN |
INDIA |
| 55.00 |
WHITE | SANCY |
INDIA |
| 45.52 |
BLUE | HOPE |
INIDA |
| 41.00 |
GREEN | DRESDEN |
INDIA |
| 35.32 |
BLUE | WITTELSBACH |
INDIA |
| 31.00 |
BLUE | EUGENIE BLUE | INDIA |
| 23.60 |
PINK | WILLIAMSON |
TANZANIA |
| 12.42 |
WHITE | UNCLE SAM | ARKANSAS |
IDENTIFICATION
CUT
Diamond is found in the form of a rough stone and from this rough stone, the cutter or the designer or the creator as we call him, has to cut and polish it into a finished Diamond. He is like an artist or a sculptor creating at every step. But while cutting and polishing a diamond, he has a few alternatives. He can give any shape, but as far as possible he would try to cut it into any of the six most important shapes. They are (1) Brilliant; (2) Oval; (3) Marquise or Navette; (4) Pear or Pendeloque; (5) Heart shape; (6) Emerald or Rectangular cut.
The aim of the
creator is very simple. While basic planning he has to keep two things in mind
(1) To obtain maximum weight; and (2) To obtain a proportionate cut diamond
with maximum brilliance. The most popular and common cut is the Brilliant Cut
which is also known as the Round or Classic cut.
The
Brilliant cut has maximum Brilliance. The facets of the diamond act like mirrors.
When a
ray of light enters the diamond, it is totally internally reflected
many times over.
The Brilliance of the Brilliant Round diamond can be explained in the following manner:
1.External
Brilliancy: Sparkle of the stone when moved and lustre is produced. by the
reflection of light on the surface of the diamond.
2.Internal
Brilliancy: Life of the diamond or one can describe it as the dispersion of
the l
ight entering the diamond. The other being the total internal reflection
of light entering the diamond.
SUMMARY OF BRILLIANT CUT
The Brilliant cut has 58 facets. It consists of Three main parts, they are:
1. Crown
2. Gride
3. Pavilion
1. Crown The crown has 33 facets:
|
No. of facets | |||
|
1 | Table |   |
01 |
| 2 | Star Facets |  |
08 |
| 3 | Upper kite facets | 08 | |
| 4 | Upper girdle facets |
16 | |
| Total | 33 |
2. Girdle: The Girdle is not considered as a facet. It is portion in between the crown and pavilion.
 |  |
Enlarged Girdle |
 | Pavalion Facets (Bhala) | 8 |
| Lower Girdle Facets (Taliya Ka trikania) | 16 | |
| Culet (Tik) | 01 | |
| Total | 25 | |
PARTS AND FACETS OF BRILLIANT CUT
SUMMARY OF BRILLIANA CUT
The Brilliant cut has 58 facets. It consists of Three main parts. They are:
(1) Crown
(2) Girdle.
(3) Pavilion
1.
3. Pavilion: The Pavilion has 25 facets:
|
No. of facets | |||
| 1 | Pavilion facets | 08 | |
| 2 | Lower Girdle facets | 16 | |
| 3 | Culet |
01 | |
| Total | 25 |
Therefore Crown + Pavilion i.e. 33 + 25 = 58 facets.
Some cutters polish a culet, some don't, so a Brilliant cut can have 57 facets without a culet or 58 facets with the culet.
CUT GRADING
With the price of the Diamonds shooting up, the cut of a Diamond has started playing an important role.
1. The Ideal or Practical Cut
We should always consider the Girdle Diameter as 100%, as the Girdle is the heart of the Diamond, and it also divides the crown and the pavilion and all the other measurement are with reference- to the girdle.
All measurements do not add upto 100% but they are in relation to the Girdle.
Ratio of Pavilion Depth to Crown Height
With the Girdle acting as a Dividing point the ratio is 3:1 or we say that Pavilion is three times to the Crown Height.
Table Diameter in % of 56%
Pavilion Depth Girdle 43.2%
Crown Height Diameter 14.4%
Ratio of Pavilion depth to Crown Height 3:1
Pavilion Main facets Angle of 40.8 deg.
Crown Main facets Plane of
Girdle 33.2 deg.
In Diamonds, you will rarely find the proportions to be cut that perfectly, as the commercial interest is more important than proportion.
2. There are 3 Main Types of Tables:
(a) Convex (Small) (b) Straight; (c) Concave [Large]
The portion above the Crown is called the table. It is a flat surface which has Eight sides and being the largest surface on the Diamond, it influences the cut of a Diamond and its "Brilliance".
To estimate the size of a table, it should be seen as follows:
The Culet which is visible in the Centre of the table is taken as "X". The Corner of the table is taken as "Y" and the line joining the Girdle as "Z".
Therefore X + y + Z = 100%
Bigger the table, the point between Y + Z is nearer.
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But
a easier method is when we have (1) Convex [Small]; (2) Straight; and (3)
Concave [Large] tables as they are called:
(a) Convex or Small Table
The smaller the table, the lines of table edges are more convexly arched or it is also called a Small Table. The approximate size of this type of table is between 53% to 56%.
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(b) Straight or Medium Table
In this type, the table is not big nor small but the lines of table edges are straight and the table size comes to approximately 57% - 60%.
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(a) Concave or Large, Table
In this type of !able, the table proportion is Big. The lines of table edge.3 are concave or large and the table size is approximately 61% to 67%.
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3. Girdle
There are three types of Girdles:
(a) The "Thin" Girdle
(b) The "Medium" Girdle
(c) The "Thick" Girdle
To check the Girdle, Visual Inspection is necessary and important.
(a) The "Thin" Girdle : It is thin all round the Girdle surface. The Thin Girdle is good but only disadvantage is that it can get easily nicked or develop fractures while setting the stone in jewellery.
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(b) The "Medium" Girdle: It is neither thin nor thick. It is one of the Best Girdles to have as it protects the Girdle properly.
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(c) The "Thick" Girdle: It is thick girdle all round the girdle surface. It is not an advantage, as light is lost through the girdle and also unnecessary weight is added because of its thickness.
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4. Culet
If there is no Culet present in the diamond, it is called a 'Point' or 'Pointed'.In bigger diamond, a culet is usually polished to protect it from getting chipped or nicked. It is also usually pointed in smaller stones. If it is a large culet through ',he table it looks large.
The five different types of Culets are:
(a) Very Small Culet
(b) Small Culet
(c) Medium Culet
(d) Large Culet
(e) Pointed Culet
COLOUR
One of the most important factor in valuing Diamond is the colour of a Diamond.
The G.I.A. grading of Diamonds starts from 'D' Alphabet as the Alphabet 'A, B, C' have got fully confused and they are not used for colour grading.
| GIA COLOUR GRADING | DISCRIPTIVE TERMS | |
| D E F | Colourless | Fine White S.W |
| G H | Near-Colourless | White |
| I J | Near-Colourless | Commercial White |
| K L M | Faint Yellow | TTLB /TTLC |
| N O P Q R | Very Light Yellow | TLB/TLC |
| S T U V W | Light Yellow | LB/LC
|
| X Y Z | Light Yellow | LB/LC |
| Z+ | Fancy | Fancy |
The Commercial trading colours are as follows:
1. Full white to commercial white
2. TTL.B. to D.B.
3. TTL.C. to D.C.
1. White
| (a) | Blue White | (Exceptionally White) |
|
(b) | Snow White | (S.W) |
| (c) | White | (W) |
| (d) | Commercial White | (C.W.) |
2. Brown
| (a) | T.T.L.B | (Top Top Light Brown) |
| (b) | TL.B. | (Top Light Brown) |
| (c) | L.B. | (Light Brown) |
| (d) | B | (Brown) |
| (e) | D.B. | (Dark Brown) |
3. Cream (yellow) Colour
| (a) | T.TL.C. | (Top Top Light Colour) |
| (b) | TL.C. | (Top Light Colour) |
| (c) | L.C, | (Light Col3ur) |
| (d) | C. | (Colour) |
| (e) | D.C. | (Dark Colour) |
The colour of the Diamond is most easily recognizable and the most difficult to grade.
Grading a cut stone for the colour means deciding from the colourless i.e. whitest to the other colours, Nature provides the Darkening or shading of colour from White to Browns - Yellow etc.
Fancy colours or Fancy Diamonds are like Green, Red, Pink, Black, Purple, which go under Fancy Diamond. They are rare and cannot be easily priced.
Condition for Colour Grading
(b) White Grading Paper : We get a sp3cial white grading paper in any Normal Gemological Equipment Shop. This paper is used for grading colour and it is a very important equipment to judge the colour of the Diamond.
The Concentration of colour of the Diamond is on:
(a) Girdle of the Diamond
(b) From the Culet to 40% of the Pavilion depth.
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Grading of Colour Is as follows:
1 . Take piece of white paper and told it in a thin 'V' Shape. Then place the Diamond with its table downwards and pavilion up and observe the diamond from the right angle of the pavilion from the culet to the 40% of the Pavilion Downward.
2. In the white paper take a pre-graded white Diamond. Keep it next to the Diamond you have to grade. You will come to know the difference of the colour
3. Use Master Diamond Set: A master diamond set has pre-graded diamonds from colour 'D' onwards. Compare them to the Diamonds, you have to colour grade.
CLARITY
The clarity of a polished Diamond affects its quality and therefore its price. The term 'Clarity also means the Purity' of a diamond. There are only Two types of Diamonds (a) Pure, and (b) Impure.
The Diamond being a piece of stone, and as it comes from under the earth, a lot of other metals, minerals and chemicals enter in the Diamond stone and hence we find the impurities inside the Diamond.
(A) In Clarity, we identify:
1. Internal Inclusions
2. External Blemishes
3. Asymetrical Cutting.
(B) Equipment required for Clarity Grading
1 . Hand lens - 10X
2. Diamond Tongs
3. Chamois Leather Cloth
4. Diamond Grading Lamp
(C) Clarity Grading depends upon
1. Size, position, brightness and types of inclusion within the stone.
2. The External surface damage in the Diamond.
3. The Imperfection of make or Asymetrical Cutting.
(D) Steps on how to see a Diamond
1. Clean the Diamond with the help of Chamois cloth.
2. Pick up the Diamond and hold it in between the Diamond Tong.
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3. Take an eye glass, hold it in your left or right hand and then take ft about one inch away from your eye. Then with the other hand pick up the Diamond, in between the Tong and slowly rest the tong on your second finger Be very comfortable. If you have the Diamond in you right hand, always use your Right Eye, with the Left Eye open, so that you do not get Eye strain and then see the inclusions through the table.
Types of Defects: They are
I. INTERNAL INCLUSIONS
1. Pin Points : They are small pin like points inside the stone.
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2. Dark Spots : Or Black Carbon spots, seen inside the diamond.
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3. Bubbles : These are small transparent inclusions inside the Diamond.
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4. Cloud : A group of Bubbles forming cloudy appearance inside the diamond.
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5. Crystal Inclusions : are minerals of different colours or colourless.
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6. Dark Inclusions : They are Big Spots of inclusions which are dark in colour.
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7. Feathers or Glets : Fracture, Tension, Cleavage cracks. All these types are cracks, which appear feathery and white.
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8. Tension Cracks : They appear due to expansion of minerals inside the stone.
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9. Cleavage Cracks : They run in direction of the cleavage plane. It runs usually in the straight line.
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10. Fracture Cracks : They are cuased due to any mechanical pressure or any other pressure on a Diamond, while Bruting or cutting.
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11. Twin Planes: or otherwise known as Twinning lines. They are twin crystal which run together inside the stone and mostly they are colourless.
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II. EXTERNAL BLEMISHES
1. Scratches: When diamonds are kept loose inside the packet, there is always a chance of the diamonds getting scratched with each other.
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2. Nicks and Chips :
(a) Nicks are wedged shape cut usually appear on the Girdle, which can be small or large. They are developed while cutting and polishing of the diamonds.
(b) Chips appear on the culet or on tie girdle. They get chipped while setting the Diamond in 'the Jewellery or while Bruting the diamond.
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3. Polishing Lines or Sal : The facet which is grinded but not polished fully. Polishing lines usually appears on the table, but it can appear on the other facets also.
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4. Burn Marks: If the diamond gets Red-hot while polishing it gets Burnt or on certain portions Burn marks appear.
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5. Natural: is the Rough part of a Diamond. It is kept to increase the weight of a diamond. It is usually kept on the girdle or under the girdle or on the pavilion.
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6. Broken Culet: While cutting the Pavilion, carelessly, the culet can break.
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7. Natts or Black Spots: They are found near the surface of the diamond.
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III. ASYMMETRICAL DEFECTS
1. Culet out of Centre: Culet is not in the centre of the Diamond.
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2. Slopping Table: Table of the diamond is too high on one side and lower at the end.
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3. Shallow Crown
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4. Shallow Pavilion or Fish Eye
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5. Deep Pavilion
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6. Displacement of Crown and Pavilion Facets
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7. Table out of centre
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CARAT (Weight)
After the cut, colour and clarity, the weight of a diamond determines its value.
The weight of diamonds is measured and quoted in carats (usual abbreviation IC,)
The Unit of weight is measured as follow:
1 Carat = 100 cents
1 Carat = 200 mg - 1/5 gm.
or 5 Carat = I gram
The price of diamond is generally given as "per Carat" and from the total price can be calculated by multiplication with weight of diamond.
For Examples:
Weight of diamond is 2.0 Carats.
Then total price of the above packets comes to
2.0 x $ 900 = $ 1800.00
2. 1 Carat and 3 cents will be written as 1.03 C and not as 1.3 C because 1.3 C will be equal to
1 Carat 30 cents.
GRADING
Grading of diamonds means, dividing the diamonds into various grades to understand and categories their different qualities. Usually over 75% of the diamonds have Internal Inclusions or External Blemishes. The Grading System helps you to divide them to understand the purities and find out their prices easily. You can grade the diamonds as follows:
| 1 |
L.C. means | loupe clean diamond |
| 2 3 4 |
VVS1 +VVS2 VS1 + VS2 SI |
Eye Clean |
| 5 6 7 |
PK. 1 RK. 2 Easi!y Noticeable with Naked Eye PK. 3 |
Easily oticeable with Naked Eye |
The Grades of Clarity are as under
Visible only through 10 x lens
1. L C = Loupe Clean
We have two grades in L.C.
(a) Flawless; (b) Internal Flawless.
a) Flawless: In this type, we have flawless diamonds without internal inclusion or External Blemishes.
(b) Internal Flawless: In this type, we have flawless diamond with some removable Blemishes, like rough girdle, naturals (small) etc.
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2. V.V.S. Very Very Small Inclusions
It is divided into 2 grades:
(a) VVS1
(b) VVS2
(a) VVS1
Internally: The table of the diamond is clean but you will find small internal tiny pinpoints outside the table.
Externally: The girdle is rough or large facet or an Extra facet.
It is very difficult to find with 10 x lens.
(b) VVS2
In this type of diamond. you will have little more internal inclusions and external Blemishes than VVS1
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3. V.S. : Very Small Inclusions
It is divided into 2 grades.
(a) VS1
(b) VS2
(a) VS1: We find very Small Inclusions, which are difficult to see, like Small Cleavages and pin points, Scratches in the field of Table : External Blemishes like Small bearing on the girdle, Small nick or culet abraded.
(b) VS2: It has little more inclusions under the table and more external features than the VS1
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3. SI = Small inclusions
We find Small inclusions which are usually noticeable through 10x lens but not through naked eye.
Inclusions: like group of pin points, Dark Crystals, Small cracks, cloudy, rough culets, nick on the girdle etc.
Now a days, this grade is not sub-divided.
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4. P.K. 1
P.K. is the french word for Pique. It is written as PK. It is slightly noticeable to the naked eye but under an eye glass very easily seen.
Internal Features: Cloudy appearance under the table, colourless and dark feathers under the table, cracks, naturals on the Girdle.
External Features: Rough girdle. Nicks on the Girdle.
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5. P.K. 2
It is more easily noticeable to the naked eye, even without an eye glass.
Internal Features : Colourless and dark feathers, dark spots, dark inclusions under the table, large cleavages on the crown facets but not under table.
External Features: Broken Culet, deep scratches, broken girdle, naturals, near the Girdle, more larger extra facets.
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6. P.K. 3
It is very easily noticeable through Naked Eye.
Internal Features : like full of colourless and dark feathers, cracks, dark spots, under the table-cloudy appearance.
External Features : Broken
Culet, deep scratches, broken girdle, naturals, near the Girdle, more larger extra
facets.
